White River Junction, Vermont: A 3- to 6-Hour Travel Guide | Seven Days

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Three to Six Hours in White River Junction, a Crossroads of Creativity

The once down-and-out railroad hub has built a funky, vibrant downtown. Here's what to see, do, eat and drink while you're there.

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Published September 18, 2024 at 10:00 a.m.


A display at Nancy the Girl - MELISSA PASANEN ©️ SEVEN DAYS
  • Melissa Pasanen ©️ Seven Days
  • A display at Nancy the Girl

Among the many artistic flourishes spied recently in downtown White River Junction, a sentence written in chalk on a brick wall epitomized a full day spent exploring the Upper Valley village. "Spread smiles," it suggested.

Over the course of 14 hours, the once down-and-out railroad town delivered ample reasons to smile. These included, but were by no means limited to: deals scored during a secondhand shopping spree, the mind-expanding creativity of students at the Center for Cartoon Studies, an enthusiastic performance of "The Loco-Motion" at Main Street Museum's player piano night and expertly executed drinks sipped at Wolf Tree cocktail bar.

The almost-20-year-old Center for Cartoon Studies is the nation's only college for cartoonists and one of the more recent feathers in White River Junction's well-worn cap.

An old train engine - MELISSA PASANEN ©️ SEVEN DAYS
  • Melissa Pasanen ©️ Seven Days
  • An old train engine

The largest of five villages that make up the town of Hartford, White River Junction was originally established as a trading post, thanks to its location at the confluence of the White and Connecticut rivers. Through the first half of the 20th century, the village became a booming industrial train hub. Then freight trucks drove off with the railroad's business, hollowing out its downtown.

But the village still boasts a crossroads location near the intersection of Interstates 91 and 89 and within a short drive of several institutions — including Dartmouth College and its associated academic medical center — that draw many people to the area.

Over the past few decades, a critical mass of creative-minded locals has invested time and money in the compact, walkable downtown, burnishing it but retaining, so far, what longtime downtown business owner Kim Souza appreciatively called its "rough edges."

Everyone wants to see White River Junction thrive, but not at the cost of its simultaneously down-to-earth and slightly eccentric character. "White River has a funky vibe: a mix of artisan, high-end and yard sale," said Mark Babson, who founded its River Roost Brewery in 2016.

Here are some suggestions for things to do and places to go in White River Junction that span the full vibe, three to six hours at a time.

9 a.m. to noon

Brunch at Putnam's vine/yard - MELISSA PASANEN ©️ SEVEN DAYS
  • Melissa Pasanen ©️ Seven Days
  • Brunch at Putnam's vine/yard

Some of us need coffee — stat — before the day can truly begin. White River Junction offers two very good options for morning caffeine and breakfast or weekend brunch to go with it. From 8 a.m. on Tuesday through Sunday, Putnam's vine/yard pulls espresso drinks in a large, plant-filled space made cozy with seating nooks. On weekends, from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., the kitchen turns out tender scones and biscuits, puffy frittatas, and poached eggs in spiced tomato-pepper sauce while the bar goes through an astounding number of bottles of cava for mimosa flights.

At Tuckerbox, breakfast is the first of the three meals served Tuesday through Saturday starting at 9 a.m. (See "Noon to 6 p.m." for a new restaurant from the Tuckerbox owners scheduled to open next week. It will start serving at 7 a.m. for those who need earlier coffee.) The Turkish and Mediterranean restaurant brews tiny cups of inky, strong Turkish coffee along with espresso options. Try the breakfast plate featuring soft white cheese, olives and a molten-yolked boiled egg.

Once caffeinated, hit the shops, starting with the village's numerous salvage, vintage and thrift stores, including the Collection, Oodles and Uplifting Thrifting. The racks at Revolution hold consignment gems alongside colorful local and independent designer creations. Nancy the Girl presents a curated selection of vintage sorted by decade with an exceptional array of hats. Junction Dance Boutique boasts frothy costumes from past shows staged by a now-shuttered dance school.

"People travel here for the secondhand experience," said Bridget Cushman, owner of Gear Again, an outdoor outfitter with a focus on consignment.

Turning to household goods, Vermont Salvage is worth browsing if only to dream of the future fixer-upper in which you could deploy its cast-iron tubs and stained-glass windows. For more current needs, head to the nonprofit COVER Store to outfit your apartment with affordable resale finds — and to its sister, Cover to COVER Books, to fill your bookshelf.

Unsurprisingly, the village of makers has rePlay Arts, where gently used and surplus art materials are priced by suggested donation.

There are also ample opportunities to admire and buy the work of local craftspeople at the multi-artist Long River Gallery and single-artisan workshops such as Scavenger Gallery, where Stacy Hopkins crafts bronze and sterling jewelry that uncannily replicates the sculptural beauty of shells, seeds and bird talons. (Hopkins, who spent years living in Italy, also sells wine and hosts occasional tastings.)

If all that art inspires you, head to POST., where a cornucopia of notebooks, pens and fun stationary supplies can capture every brilliant idea or doodle.

Then pop into Little Istanbul, owned by Vural and Jackie Oktay of Tuckerbox. The Turkish market will saturate your senses with bulk spices, woven fabrics and glowing glass pendant lamps. In the same building, Fontinalis presents wine organized by region — and pours regular Friday tastings for later in your day — along with tinned seafood, local cheeses and crackers for grazing.

Speaking of food, those shopping bags are getting heavy. Isn't it time to take a load off and eat something?

Noon to 6 p.m.

"Before I Die," a participatory public art project in White River Junction - MELISSA PASANEN ©️ SEVEN DAYS
  • Melissa Pasanen ©️ Seven Days
  • "Before I Die," a participatory public art project in White River Junction

For lunch, meat lovers can dig into piles of ribs or brisket at Big Fatty's BBQ or try the global flavors at Phnom Penh Sandwich Station, where Southeast Asian classics include top-notch Vietnamese-style bánh mì sandwiches and noodle dishes.

You could also head back to Tuckerbox for falafel or doner kebab. And, by the end of September, you should be able to try its brand-new sibling eatery, Cappadocia Café, the Oktay family's third White River Junction business. The counter-service bakery and café will serve wood-fired flatbreads called lahmajun and canoe-shaped pizzas called pide.

If the weather cooperates, head for a ramble in Hurricane Forest Wildlife Refuge Park, a 10-minute drive from downtown. It has several short, moderate trails; savvy foragers might spy some edible mushrooms en route.

Alternately, take a downtown stroll, making sure to peer into alleyways and behind buildings, where art pops up in unexpected places. Cross the railroad tracks to see a rare preserved 1921 Boston & Maine caboose car. For another view into history, peek into the lobby of the Hotel Coolidge, a comfortably faded relic of a bygone era that has hosted guests since 1849.

Continue on a gallery and studio crawl starting with the nonprofit Kishka Gallery & Library, where "Ask a Question, Squeeze Out the Answer," by Brooklyn artist and sculptor Rachel Jackson hangs through September 28. Other arty stops include Janna's Gate Street Gallery and Two Rivers Printmaking Studio. At the latter cooperatively run teaching studio, "Land Unfolding" by Rachel Gross graces the walls through October 25.

The Schulz Library at the Center for Cartoon Studies - MELISSA PASANEN ©️ SEVEN DAYS
  • Melissa Pasanen ©️ Seven Days
  • The Schulz Library at the Center for Cartoon Studies

If you're in town on a Friday or Saturday afternoon and are curious about the Center for Cartoon Studies, you're in luck. The school's impressive Schulz Library, named for "Peanuts" creator Charles M. Schulz, is located in the village's historic post office building and is generally open to the public noon to 5 p.m. on those two days. (Call ahead to check and knock for entry.) From classic "Peanuts" strips to student work expounding on contemporary social subjects, the deep collection provides stimulating material for all tastes — and comfy chairs to read in.

Next it's time to relax with a late-afternoon beverage. Check out Scavenger and Fontinalis for pop-up wine tastings, or head over to the brand-new expanded taproom at River Roost Brewery for a glass of its Más Verde IPA or seasonal Märzenbier.

6 p.m. to midnight

Burrata toast at REDCAN - MELISSA PASANEN ©️ SEVEN DAYS
  • Melissa Pasanen ©️ Seven Days
  • Burrata toast at REDCAN

White River Junction's robust arts schedule draws many to town for evening entertainment. Shows range from the polished playbill at the well-established Northern Stage, which starts its season on October 2 with Sisters by Matthew Libby, to the work of smaller theater groups, such as Shaker Bridge Theatre and We the People Theater.

The latter both rent the Briggs Opera House, where Shaker Bridge's The Thanksgiving Play by Larissa FastHorse runs from September 26 to October 13. The Briggs also hosts numerous grassroots endeavors, from a recent Upper Valley 24-Hour Play Festival that involved 60 community members to an inclusive benefit fashion show on November 2.

Nonprofit Junction Arts & Media organizes a packed calendar of participatory arts events, including storytelling circles, teen zine nights and scriptwriting groups. On Wednesday evenings, head to the Filling Station Bar & Grill to play in — or listen to — the weekly acoustic jam session. The downtown business and arts community also puts a lot of energy into monthly First Fridays. In warmer weather, these feel like a village-wide block party.

All that activity means that dinner reservations are a good idea. In addition to old favorites — Big Fatty's, Tuckerbox, and the evening-only, new American menus offered at Elixir and Thyme — sit-down dinner choices in White River Junction just expanded with the addition of REDCAN.

The recently opened restaurant owned by chef Jason Merrill and his wife, Leslie, is named for Jason's late mother's preferred beverage: Coca-Cola in a red can — though a cocktail or glass of wine feels more fitting in the richly wallpapered, dark-wood dining room. The new eatery boasts a raw bar and not-so-secret speakeasy room "hidden" behind bookshelves. Its global menu ranges from burrata with tomato and pesto to a crab cake with relish mayo to Korean barbecue fried chicken bao buns.

For a light grazing dinner, Putnam's offers what it calls a "picnic menu" of dips, nuts and nibbles to go with its extensive list of wines and some cocktails, including interesting nonalcoholic options. Owner Kelsey Rush encourages guests to bring in food from other local eateries and challenge her Wine & Spirit Education Trust-trained staff to find a perfect pairing. "You can even bring in last night's dinner in Tupperware," she said, only half-joking.

If, for example, you pick up a spread of spicy Indian curries from White River Junction's takeout-only Taj-E, they might suggest a Finger Lakes Sheldrake Point pinot gris.

Whatever you get for dinner, save room for Putnam's puckery passion fruit crème brûlée.

David Fairbanks Ford and Chico Eastridge performing with the player piano at Main Street Museum - MELISSA PASANEN ©️ SEVEN DAYS
  • Melissa Pasanen ©️ Seven Days
  • David Fairbanks Ford and Chico Eastridge performing with the player piano at Main Street Museum

No visit to White River Junction would be complete without a stop at the Main Street Museum, fabled venue of idiosyncratic happenings, such as free surprise Tuesday movies (no, you can't ask the title ahead) and sing-along player piano nights most Fridays. The museum's second annual Mrs. Roper Romp takes place on Saturday, September 21, and an all-ages Spooktacular Punktacular show is on October 19.

Often dressed in a white tux jacket with a bow tie and cummerbund, founder David Fairbanks Ford presides over the refurbished fire station jam-packed with 10,000 player piano rolls, taxidermy and crystal chandeliers. "This is a weird town," the 30-year-resident said with evident relish. "No one quite gets it."

Wrap up your night at the new REDCAN speakeasy or stop by Wolf Tree. The sophisticated cocktail bar and its young, animated crowd could easily plop down in Brooklyn, though the staff happily lacks big-city attitude.

On Wolf Tree's large menu of wine, beer and compelling house cocktails, including a low-alcohol section, the Goldilocks stood out. Made with pineapple brandy, lemon, sesame orgeat and orange bitters, it capped off the day perfectly.

The cocktail was creative and slightly unexpected with a nutty touch — just like White River Junction.

Nearby Noteworthy Stops

There's plenty to do in White River Junction, but if you're driving from the Burlington area or elsewhere, you will be very close to a few other destinations of note.

If You Go

This series is a Vermont-size take on the popular New York Times travelogue "36 Hours." Since most destinations in the Green Mountain State don't require a day and a half to experience, we offer day trip itineraries of local towns in three- to six-hour chunks. Got a good travel tip? Email us at [email protected].

The original print version of this article was headlined "Creative Crossroads | Three to six hours in White River Junction, a charming village with eccentric character"

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