• File: Daria Bishop
• Avocado toast with gravlax (left) and Béné Olé at L'Entre-Pots

This "backstory" is a part of a collection of articles that describes some of the obstacles that Seven Days reporters faced while pursuing Vermont news, events and people in 2023.

When Seven Days decided to produce a Québec Issue this year, I was looking forward to heading north to eat a day's worth of meals in Montréal with maybe a brief sidebar list of past favorites. Somehow, one day turned into three after friends of publisher Paula Routly suggested I chat with Marie Comtois, a native Montréaler, who they said knew the city and its restaurant scene intimately.

I figured Marie would help me uncover some off-the-beaten-path destinations to add to my agenda, but soon she was offering not only to help map out the itinerary but also insisting on taking vacation days to be our guide and driver.

"I always have time for food!" Marie wrote in our initial email exchange.

We drafted an ambitious plan based on Marie's assurance that she could get us around efficiently. All I had to do was get myself and my sidekick, photographer Daria Bishop, into the city.

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Things were going fine as we sailed past the iconic Farine Five Roses factory only to get snarled in a tangle of navigational challenges as we approached our hotel just off the Place des Arts. Construction made it look as if the hotel street were temporarily one way. After several frustrating tours around the neighborhood, we realized it was, in fact, a two-way street. I practically threw my car keys at the valet and happily relinquished all remaining city driving.

As soon as Marie pulled up in her gray Mitsubishi Outlander, we could tell we were in capable hands. She sported aviator glasses and a don't-mess-with-me attitude, and the parking gods almost always seemed to be on her side. If not, she would strike up a conversation and ask a construction worker or guy smoking on the corner to watch the car while we popped in for a bite.

"I'm a little bit of a cowboy," Marie confided shortly before she purposely drove the wrong way down a one-way street to evade one of the countless Day-Glo orange "Rue barrée" street closure signs.

• File: Daria Bishop
• A roadblock sign in downtown Montréal

Much as she loves her city, Marie frequently lamented the state of Montréal's streets. She pointed out "potholes so big you could barbecue in them." In reference to the infestation of traffic cones, she declared darkly, "Cones are the enemy."

But nothing could stop her as we dashed between croissants, dumplings and cannoli. She was thrilled to help us share with Vermonters many of her favorite spots — and even learn about a few from us.

We never could have taxied or Ubered our way through as much ground — 16-plus destinations in more than 30 waking hours — as we did with Marie's help.

Sometimes, I wished she were a little less efficient to allow me more time to digest between stops.