Warren’s Chez Henri Will Go On Without Henri | Food News | Seven Days | Vermont's Independent Voice

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Warren’s Chez Henri Will Go On Without Henri

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Published November 7, 2023 at 2:08 p.m.
Updated November 8, 2023 at 10:10 a.m.


Borel - COURTESY OF SUGARBUSH RESORT
  • Courtesy Of Sugarbush Resort
  • Borel

Just shy of its 60th year in business, Chez Henri, the seasonal dining landmark in Warren's Sugarbush Village, lost its founder and namesake. Henri Borel died at the age of 96 in his hometown of Avignon, France, on September 6.

Despite the loss, Chez Henri will reopen on its standard schedule in early to mid-December, said Borel's longtime business partner, Bernard Perillat, by phone from France. Perillat said he anticipates "business as usual" with the return of his veteran crew, including executive chef Tim Seniff.

Perillat and Borel - COURTESY
  • Courtesy
  • Perillat and Borel

Borel and his wife, Rosie, who predeceased him, opened Chez Henri in December 1964. Several years later, Borel met his future business partner, Perillat, over a plate of escargots in Montréal.

For decades, the two Frenchmen opened their doors each winter, offering the cuisine of Paris and the ambience of les Alpes. If the outdoor bistro table was set with silk flowers on a red-checked tablecloth, they were open, serving croque monsieur, moules marinière and steak tartare. Olympians, socialites and regular folks trudged down the snow-covered stairs for French food, a convivial atmosphere and the souvenir photos that Borel happily shot of his customers.

Borel - COURTESY OF SUGARBUSH RESORT
  • Courtesy Of Sugarbush Resort
  • Borel

Through the 2022-23 winter, Borel continued to welcome guests with his mirthful smile, snapping photos around the dining room. "The restaurant energized my dad," Borel's daughter Francoise said by phone from Florida. She recalled the nonagenarian jumping in to wash dishes last season after the dishwasher quit.

Bernard Perillat and Henri Borel - COURTESY
  • Courtesy
  • Bernard Perillat and Henri Borel

Borel spent his summer in Avignon as usual. He walked into town for coffee and the newspaper three days before he died, according to his daughter.

Asked if he had a photo of himself with his longtime friend and business partner, Perillat said he did not.

"I am not the photographer," he said. "The photographer has left."

A celebration of Henri Borel's life is planned for the weekend of December 17 at Chez Henri.

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