The Belted Cow Bistro in Essex doesn't stop serving Tuesday-night barbecue specials in the winter. Chef-owner John Delpha also continues to practice for competition. (His team, I Que, is currently the top-rated squad in both the New York and New England circuits.) Last week, videographer Elizabeth Rossano and I joined Delpha at his Essex home to help make his magnificent ribs. Don't watch this one hungry.