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Try the Pie

Taste-testing Mystic's new blueberry

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Since 2004, the Vermont Mystic Pie Company has been turning out all-natural pies made with Cabot butter, King Arthur flour and Champlain Orchard apples. This August, the Waterbury-based outfit added a blueberry-apple pie to its product line. The new flavor blends apples and blueberries from Vermont and Maine with black currant puree and a mélange of spices. The recipe elevates the pie above the average frozen baked dessert. But is eating it a mystical experience?

After baking the pie according to the package directions, I obediently let it sit for 45 tantalizing minutes so the juices could be "fully reabsorbed." Then I cut through the top crust, which was so crisp and flaky that it shattered along the edge of my knife. In spite of the promise on the package, the filling was still really runny. I scooped my first, less-than-elegant slice from the re-usable aluminum pie pan, and tasted.

My teeth first met shards of buttery crust, and then sank into the filling. The apples were meltingly soft while the blueberries were still firm enough to burst when I bit into them, creating a pleasant diversity of textures. The flavor of the fruit mixture was well balanced - not overly sweet, as so many pies are. With a warming hint of nutmeg and a delicate application of cinnamon, the filling was pretty perfect.

My only real quibble, in fact, was the texture of the bottom crust. Although the pie spent more than an hour in a 400-degree oven, the bottom came out doughy and undercooked. Whether this was due to the overly juicy filling or my quirky oven, it detracted from my enjoyment of the pie.

Overall, the Vermont Mystic Pie Company's blueberry pie is a great option when you don't have time to do the baking yourself - just make sure to serve it in a bowl!

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