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Spare Fare

Side Dishes: A new restaurant's bowling 'em over


Published February 25, 2009 at 6:47 a.m.

Handling big balls is hard work, and hard work calls for hearty and healthy meals. But at most bowling alleys, the food is frozen and deep fried. Not so at the City Sports Grille in Colchester, located in the SpareTime bowling alley near Costco. There, patrons can roll in for sesame-noodle chicken salad, wild mushroom chicken and Santa Fe pork chops.

Does the fare sound familiar? It should if you were ever a fan of Waterworks, late of the Champlain Mill in Winooski. A handful of the defunct restaurant’s staffers — including its owner, bartender, a cook and general manager Rick Hubbart (who also co-owns PK Café, which used to be Purple Knight’s) — now work for the alley.

To house the Grille, the alley’s owners built a new addition, complete with fireplaces and high ceilings. “The whole idea was to bring up the level of food,” Hubbart dishes. “We’ve added a full menu.”

So far, in addition to the fancier fare, customer faves include the “ridiculously cheap” steak sandwiches, burgers, chicken wings and spuds. “Some people have likened the fries to Al’s,” Hubbart attests. Soon there will be homemade desserts, too.

The spot, which opened in late November, also offers 52 TVs and live entertainment on weekends.