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Interview with a Wine Guy: Summer Wines

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When the weather soarsabove 90 — and Vermonters curse their neighbors with air conditioning — standingwaist deep in Lake Champlain holding a cold drink sounds like the thing to do.  During the last heat wave, this urge determinedthe focus of my next wine-guy inquisition: summer quaffs.

I went to Dedalus Wine Shop tospeak with co-owner Jason Zuliani, who became passionate about wine whileworking at the New England Culinary Institute. After Zuliani took a briefhiatus, NECI recruited him to be their wine director.

But Zuliani was leading a dual life: wine guy by day, technology guru bynight. He also co-owned telecommunications firm Eagle Network Solutions (ENS). When that business took off, Zuliani left NECI,  butconvinced his ENS partner, Tim Banks, that they needed to open a wine shop.

Both Banks and Zuliani enjoy huntingdown and selling obscure bottles and wines that evoke some uniquecharacteristic of a place or culture. I wanted to find a wine that represented summer, obscureor otherwise.

Seven Days: If you had to choose one wine to represent thesummer, what would you choose?

Jason Zuliani: If I had to choose one? That’s a serioushandicap for a guy like me. I would probably get into Italianwhites. I would look at a Lugana or a Grillo. Those wines arereally crisp, minerally, refreshing and vibrant...without a lot ofdistraction. A big blast of one on a hot day is great.

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