Green Cup Café & Bakery Finds Big Success in Small Waitsfield | 7 Nights Spotlight | Seven Days | Vermont's Independent Voice

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Green Cup Café & Bakery Finds Big Success in Small Waitsfield

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The Green Cup in Waitsfield - JEB WALLACE-BRODEUR
  • Jeb Wallace-Brodeur
  • The Green Cup in Waitsfield

It's rare enough to find exquisite fare in small-town Vermont. But to find a restaurant that serves it up at breakfast, lunch and dinner? Almost unheard of.

The Green Cup in Waitsfield does just that. Located on Bridge Street, the eatery is owned by its 35-year-old chef, Jason Gulisano, whose pedigree includes a stint at the Glendorn, a luxurious Relais & Chateaux property in Pennsylvania.

The Green Cup in Waitsfield - JEB WALLACE-BRODEUR
  • Jeb Wallace-Brodeur
  • The Green Cup in Waitsfield

At the Cup, the day starts with plenty of creative egg options. At lunch, panini sandwiches for $6.95 combine Thai shrimp with cabbage kimchi, or lamb shoulder with Manchego cheese, green olives and eggplant. The ever-changing dinner menu is packed with local fare served with uncommon flair, but it also includes a particularly fine selection of seafood.

In the casual front room, with a peek-a-boo view of the kitchen, rustic décor — antique cooking implements and a painting of a chicken — is a counterpoint to a wall lined with gilt-framed mirrors. The cozier back room is a bit more elegant.

But no matter where you're seated, the food looks breathtaking. "Nuggets" of lobster arrive in a creamy risotto studded with baby asparagus and crispy shallots. The sauce on the dish is frothed so it looks like a roiling ocean. Fluorescent pink tuna tartare is lightly dressed with olive oil, mirin and herbs and enclosed on all sides by a fortress of potato chips: impossibly thin tuber slices fried to a rich gold.

Happily, the food tastes as good as it looks. Every piece of monkfish or squab is matched with a harmonious selection of flavorful ingredients, including items such as aged sherry, braised lentils, handmade herb pasta and crispy leeks. The results are outstanding.

A slab of snowy coconut cake — beloved by Mark Bittman of the New York Times — makes a delightful end to a meal.

This article was originally published in 7 Nights: The Seven Days Guide to Vermont Restaurants & Bars in April 2010.

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