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Fowl Is Fare

Side Dishes: Stevens Cooks Up Some Ducks


The demise of Gourmet magazine was a big blow to foodies, but it may have one good consequence: Instead of just renewing old subscriptions for the holidays, cooks can spend their time shopping around for ’zines that match their culinary styles.

In that spirit, I just signed up for the bimonthly fine Cooking, which pairs lush photography with enticing recipes. It was the December/January cover, with its image of a dense-looking chocolate cake topped with a mound of homemade marshmallows, that grabbed me. But the promise of “52 Classic Holiday Recipes,” including one for Christmas Goose, was equally enticing.

Turns out local cookbook author and teacher Molly Stevens, also a fine Cooking contributing editor, was the one responsible for that spread on less common poultry. In a feature called “Duck, Duck, Goose! (and Hens),” Stevens offers methods for making Roasted Ducks with Tangerine-Hoisin Glaze, Roasted Goose with Brandied Prune Stuffing and Red Wine Gravy, and Roasted Cornish Game Hens with Cranberry-Port Sauce.

Talk about goosing up your standard holiday fare.