• Matthew Thorsen
• Solstice at Stowe Mountain Lodge

Plenty of restaurants are pretty. But the earth-toned dining room at Solstice has a grandeur that's at once rooted right here — the room's furnishings and pottery were created by Vermont artisans — and totally out of this world. There is nothing else like it in the state.

The kitchen team crafts elegantly simple and seasonal fare that perfectly complements the décor. À la carte ordering is available, but the five-course $75 tasting menu is a special treat. On a given night, it could include a bite of crisped Duclos & Thompson pork belly with a drizzle of spiced honey, a dish of lamb and gnocchi with local ricotta and braised leeks — or both. Since they purchase food from nearly 40 area farmers and producers, the chefs have oodles of meats, greens and other products to choose from.

• Matthew Thorsen
• Solstice at Stowe Mountain Lodge

The fruit tarts and house-made ice creams are divine — and few can resist a dessert called the Chocolate Triple Bypass. For those who can, the cheese plate is exceptional, a wide assortment of nutty, creamy or stinky wedges. Wash 'em down with a glass of sweet and tangy, amber-colored Eden Ice Cider, one of Vermont's premier dessert wines.

Can't swing dining-room prices? Just steps away, at the Hourglass Bar, patrons can snuggle up near the fireplace and snack on Moroccan-spiced chicken wings with blue cheese dressing and house-pickled veggies, or a flatbread — recently touted in Food & Wine magazine — and a pint of beer or a snazzy cocktail.

Another budget option? Get your fix pre-mountain instead of post. At breakfast, Solstice offers build-your-own omelettes for $12, while an egg, cheddar and bacon sandwich is $9.

No matter when you go, the ambience, service and fare conspire to make everyone feel like a VIP.

This article was originally published in 7 Nights: The Seven Days Guide to Vermont Restaurants & Bars in April 2010.