150 Dorset Street, South Burlington 863-9464

Sometimes I'm craving fried chicken. Other times it's ribs. More often than not, it's both. That's when I head to Wings Over Burlington.

It's not just the fact that I can get a half rack of ribs, half a pound of chicken tenders and fries for $14.99. It's that this meal for two showcases the most tender ribs, juiciest chicken and tastiest sauces around. I always get my ribs slathered in Golden Barbecue sauce, a combination of mustard and tangy barbecue that will have you licking your fingers long after the actual sauce remnants are gone. The dark pork falls from the bone so gently. You might want to use a fork, but you'd be missing the visceral Lord of the Flies beauty of the experience.

The chicken tenders, actually called boneless wings, are rotund, moist chunks. Yes, they stay crispy even when bathed in one of Wings Over Burlington's many exquisite sauces. If you're still worried, get a dry rub, like Garlic Parmesan, which reminds me pleasantly of popcorn. The Honey Mustard sauce is viscous, bright yellow, but buttery and surprisingly subtle. My favorite, though, is Spicy Teriyaki. The sweet, vinegary sauce has just enough spice to produce a comforting burn on the lips.

Immediately after finishing this satisfying showcase of foods that disturbs my doctor, I'm craving more. Smelling Spicy Teriyaki wafting from my trash the next day almost drove me insane. Luckily, they deliver.