131 Main Street, Burlington 864-2433
Since the beginning of Souza's life, I had been a regular atbrunch. Meat on swords, pao de queijo (cheese bread) and cashew juice withthe magical scrambled eggs that converted me from an egg-hater to an egg-eater? Sim, por favor!
But since it opened in its new location on the corner of Main and St. Paul, Souza's had been dinner-only — until last week. Better yet? The brunch is now $9.99. And there’s more stuff. The huge salad bar – by night laden withhearts of palm, mixed salads and antipasti — is piled with the some usualsuspects and fresh breakfast pastries.
Most notable were the glazed spicedonuts, a marzipan roll and what we dubbed “the bacon roll” — pieces of toastedbrioche served under crisp bacon and soaked in bacon grease. Hot dishes on thebuffet included bacon-studded homefries, tangy homemade hash and improbably,lovely beef stroganoff over farfalle.
As opposed to the nighttime roster of 14 meats (includingtender marinated lamb and bacon-wrapped filet mignon), brunch brought onlythree: garlicky, crisp-skinned chicken thighs, tender and deliciously rock-saltedsirloin and juicy pork loin. Cinnamon-covered pineapple was also sliceddirectly at the table. The moist, creamy scrambled eggs were made to order andpromptly brought to the table.
Juices made from cashew fruit, guavas, passion fruit andmangoes are all-you-can-drink, served cafeteria-style. However uncomfortable theeffort may be, I recommend you try some real-deal dulce de leche and a chewybrownie from the dessert buffet. It’s worth the wait, but be sure to leave beforeyou’re hungry. We stood in line for over an hour. I hope that next time, the optionof reservations might be available.