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Best Bites: Sadie Katz Delicatessen


Published December 1, 2009 at 1:35 p.m.

189 Bank Street, Burlington 864-5308

There's nothing more satisfying than a thick pile of hot meat between two slices of bread. I'm not trying to be pornographic, but when talking about a great sandwich, sometimes it's inevitable. Maybe it's the New York Jew in me, but I find that a perfect pastrami sandwich has effects akin to that of plasmapheresis. I am purified. Add a bowl of matzoh ball soup (pictured) and I am reborn.

That's why, when I head to Sadie Katz's, I go for the half sandwich and small soup ($7.25). Part of me wants to gorge on the New York Huge sandwich ($17.00) instead, but the soup makes my decision. The ideally salted poultry and veggie-rich broth bathes a single,tender matzoh ball. I add al dente egg noodles at no extra charge. The only thing that could make my standard meal more of a shot in the arm is an egg cream. For the uninitiated, the drink contains neither egg nor cream. Basically, it's chocolate milk, carbonated with seltzer. Weird, but fantastic.

I recently discovered that Sade Katz's serves breakfast all day. Though the treyf-tastic standard Benedict included a thick cut of Canadian bacon, it was delicious. A sprinkling of paprika added a unique flair to the sweet hollandaise. A giant latke kept the dish crisply on-theme. Next time, I will have to try the Pastrami Benedict, with sliced beef replacing the bacon and rye standing in for the chewy English muffin. Hopefully, it will match the glories of the Malibu Burger, an LA-style stack of pastrami on top of a burger.

For those who prefer a sweet start, I wholeheartedly recommend the challah french toast. The plate-sized slabs of tender bread soak up syrup like nobody's business. Not that you need it with the generous snowfall of powdered sugar already in place. All that barely leaves room for a skin-soft blintz or two. Or does it?