by Corin Hirsch
So I went down Tuesday to check it out. The best-laid plans: Chill is only open from Thursday to Monday, at least until spring. Through the window, I could see the gelato flavors scrawled on a chalkboard — hazelnut, stracciatella with roasted cherries, "Mint-pelier" — as well as lemon and pear-anise sorbets. Sigh. It would have to wait for another day.
Next door, fortunately, a similarly tantalizing operation is in full swing — Cocoa Bean at 40 State, which also opened a few weeks ago. Inside the airy space, the smell of chocolate layers the air, and two cases are loaded with truffles, barks, caramel-filled chocolates, pumpkin- and moose-shaped pops and free samples of glossy dark and milk chocolate leaves.
Owners Wally and Jane Delia used to own Vermont Chocolatiers, and they clearly have a way with Belgian chocolate: A maple-cayenne truffle pulsates with gentle heat; an espresso truffle packs the tannic wallop of a dozen morning coffees. I'm usually not much for barks, but couldn't resist a dark-chocolate shard studded with wasabi peas; each bite is a jumble of cocoa, salt and spice.
The piece de résistance, though, is among the simplest of creations: a smear of peanut butter encased in a robe of supple dark chocolate. In other words, a dark-chocolate peanut butter cup. Ever had one of those? You'll never seek out a Reese's again, fo shizz.