by Alice Levitt
38 Main Street, Winooski, 802-497-0289
The lacquered bowls are pretty at cozy and clean Pho Pasteur, in the space that used to house 38 Main Street Pub. However, the soup is not one of the more attractive ones I've seen.
Don't let its slightly bare appearance fool you. The broth packs a flavor wallop. The base is richly beefy, but the sweet, meaty notes fade in the face of a strongly aromatic mix of spices.
As the soup approaches, the cinnamon and cloves are so dominant that it almost smells like hot cider is on the horizon. Anise provides a nice licorice twist. The beef in the bowl arrives still raw in places, but cooks to a delicious brown at the table. The basil, bean sprouts, lime and jalapeño's on the side are fresh and tasty. All-around, one of the best.
The stir fried beef with lemongrass and crushed chili peppers is a far cry from the sweet and sour flavors common in the majority of this area's Vietnamese dishes. Bright lemongrass and earthy pepper combine in a surprisingly comforting way. The whole was flavorful enough that I ate the vermicelli without giving it a nước cham bath.
The best part? There are still lots of things I want to try. For example, several unique spring rolls including ones filled with chicken or charbroiled pork meat balls (one of my favorite things). And I have to save room for an avocado smoothie. Luckily, I live nearby!